20/1/09
Milano Moda Uomo
 | Milano Moda Uomo |
  | |
| Start Date | 17-JAN-09 | End Date | 20-JAN-09 |
|
Piazzale Giulio,
Milano, Italy.
Tel: +(39)-(2)-49971
Fax: +(39)-(2)-49977963
MILANO "UOMO"- ARMANI, VERSACE, CAVALLI.
Los estilistas italianos han apostado por un hombre conservador vestido acorde con los tiempos de crisis, en colores fríos y neutros con dominio del negro, envueltos en bufandas, mantones y con adornos metálicos en cinturones y cazadoras.
Durante la presentación de la moda otoño-invierno 2009-1010 en Milán, Cavalli ha mostrado un hombre austero con toques de inspiración oriental, como las babuchas, el bolso de tela de tejido "killim" (alfombra turca) y cinturones anchos de doble hebilla.
El hombre de Cavalli viste cazadoras de piel cortas, en una mirada atrás a los años 80, por la que asoma la camisa o el jersey en unos casos y en otros, lo muestra de negro a pecho descubierto y pañuelo al cuello, con pantalón estrecho y el antebrazo cubierto por empuñaduras de cuero adornadas con incrustaciones metálicas que retrotraen a los personajes de Matrix.
El pantalón pijama o de cuadros, siempre cortos estilo ciclista que muestran calcetines de lana gorda. Sorprende a veces con chaquetas "yukata" tipo japonés o batín.
Salvatore Ferragamo, con la línea diseñada por Massimiliano Gironetti, ha resaltado los pantalones anchos con chaquetas cortas, quizá demasiado, a juego con mocasines de terciopelo. Bufandas de rayas y mantones trenzados de piel, que confieren al hombre un aire juvenil.
La línea de Gianfranco Ferré, diseñada por Tommasso Aquilano y Roberto Rimondi, propone un hombre joven refinado, natural y vanguardista, envuelto en bufandas largas, mantones de piel y cuero, jersey de cuello vuelto abrochado con botón o suelto, con mezcla de lana y piel con formas arquitectónicas.
Los volúmenes de las prendas que cubren el torso masculino son rectangulares, redondos y abombados y están combinados con pantalones muy estrechos. La piel, el gran clásico de la casa, se combina con el neopreno en gabanes y montgomerys.
El esmoquin se tiñe de blanco y la organzas se mezclan con la lana, mientras las novedosas camisas de cuello alto se adornan con lentejuelas que reflejan puntos de luz. Los colores que imperan en Ferre son combinaciones de blanco y negro, con mantones tipo "kefia" palestina y guiños a los azules marino.
El astro del fútbol, el británico David Bechkam fichado ahora por el Milán, asistió muy elegante con traje y corbata al desfile del Emporio Armani, con el consiguiente revuelo para los fotógrafos que cubrían el evento que se desarrolló en el Teatro de Via Bergognone. Junto al futbolista ingles estaba sentado el torero Francisco Rivera Ordóñez.
Una colección, la de Armani, denominada anti-crisis en la que sobresale el color verde esperanza, en una amplia gama de tonos desde el verde fango a las tonalidades boscosas, como un reclamo a la naturaleza y a poner en valor al hombre sin brillos ni luces. La novedad son los pantalones con cintura alta y el broche final lo ha puesto el poncho en piel con los colores del equipo de fútbol Inter de Milán en negro y azul marino.
Giorgio Armani comentó a los periodistas en tono de sorna que vestirlos resulta más difícil que a personajes como el próximo presidente de EE.UU. Barack Obama, de quien dijo "me gusta muchísimo".
Milano Moda Uomo Spring 2009: Looking for a Hero
DALLAS, May 21, 2008 / FW/ — With Milano Moda Uomo Spring 2009 in the horizon, but everyone going gaga over the upcoming ‘Sex & The City’ movie, the usual interest for menswear had been eclipsed with the high profile coverage of women’s fashion, albeit it is for a movie.
Which brings us the question – does menswear need a new hero? And, I don’t mean a designer, but a new icon, be it fictional characters like what Carrie Bradshaw and friends did for womenswear or real life heroes like David Beckham, the de facto poster boy of metrosexuals.
Still, metrosexuality did not really sit well among men. Except for the urban male who had embraced metrosexuality without question, the regular American male who drives a truck, an SUV even a sports car did not see themselves as metrosexuals. They just saw themselves as men.
Their heroes remain to be sports stars from Kobe Bryant to Andre Agassi, yet though the appeal of sports heroes are universal, they are not really worshipped because they are fashion plates. They are admired because of their game play.
Yet, the likes of Kobe Bryant, though they are always dressed well are not expected to be fashion plates. They are expected to be great at their games, which brings us to another world, open to everyone but mostly populated by men – video gaming.
The video game world has a lot of heroes and there are too many of them to mention here. Quite frankly, it will be hard to name all of them because the video game genres are as varied as the movies. Still, it will not behoove us to mention the 14-year Final Fantasy series by Square Enix (formerly Square Soft) wherein their heroes and heroines have captured the imagination of both teens and adult gamers.
On its latest installment Final Fantasy XII (the 13th installment is due in North America late this year), one of the main characters Balthier had captured the heart of both male and female gamers, albeit the female gamers make up only a very small percentage of the gaming industry.
I won’t go into a review of the game (here is a link for a fashion review of Final Fantasy XII), but needless to say, Balthier’s total look, which of course includes his outfit, had gotten everyone’s attention. (See photo above, courtesy of Square Enix, copyright Square Enix)
Maybe, that’s what menswear need, a fictional hero that will not grow old. The same way that Marvel comics gave us Superman and Batman, our childhood heroes that have actually inspired real clothes worn by real men, perhaps, Balthier is something that the internet generation needs. After all, they have been born and raised in the digital world.
(For those of you who have not played Final Fantasy XII, here’s a video clip)
13/12/08
Buon Natale
BUON NATALE! MERRY CHRISTMAS! FELIZ NAVIDAD! JOYEUX NOËL!
So this is Christmas
And what have you done
Another year over
And a new one just begun
Ans so this is Christmas
I hope you have fun
The near and the dear one
The old and the young
A very merry Christmas
And a happy New Year
Let's hope it's a good one
Without any fear
And so this is Christmas
For weak and for strong
For rich and the poor ones
The world is so wrong
And so happy Christmas
For black and for white
For yellow and red ones
Let's stop all the fight
A very merry Christmas
And a happy New Year
Let's hope it's a good one
Without any fear
And so this is Christmas
And what have we done
Another year over
And a new one just begun
Ans so this is Christmas
I hope you have fun
The near and the dear one
The old and the young
A very merry Christmas
And a happy New Year
Let's hope it's a good one
Without any fear
War is over over
If you want it
War is over
Now...
Merry Christmas - John Lennon
4/10/08
Ricardo Asensio
Ricardo ASENSIO
RICARDO ASENSIO nato a Valencia (SPAGNA) nel 1949. Artisticamente si è formato lavorando nella città di ROMA, BARCELONA e VALENCIA, conseguendo numerosi premi in importanti e prestigiosi concorsi Internazionali di pittura, collettive ed esposizioni personali, per citarne alcuni: nel 1979 finalista per la pittura alla Accademia di Spagna in ROMA, 1981 Premio "Villa Alessandra", selezionato per i suoi di ritratti...
Nel resto del mondo: Menzione d'Onore al Salone d'Inverno di NEW YORK, Menzione d'Onore al Museo delle Americhe in FLORIDA...
Prestigioso ritrattista di intellettuali e personaggi illustri, è un artista impegnato continuamente nella innovazione della pittura. La sua opera inizia in un primo momento nella rappresentazione nettamente figurativa, concentrata nella figurazione di personalità dello spettacolo, della cultura e della politica, esprimendosi anche nei paesaggi raggiungendo una perfezione pittorica pari alla fotografia, utilizzando semplicemente i suoi colori ad olio e pastelli sapientemente mescolati dando forza nelle sobrie tonalità delle sue composizioni a tutto tondo. Coerente nella sua opera e con una tecnica che lo identifica e lo distacca dal panorama internazionale. Famosissimi i ritratti di personaggi come il Premio Nobel Camilo José Cela, lo scrittore drammaturgo Antonio Buero Vallejo, la Principessa Beatrice d´Orleans, Marisa di Borbon, le attrici Virna Lisi e Dalila Di Lazzaro, Kim Novak, Faye Dunaway, Brooke Shields ...
Le sue opere sono visibili in musei d'arte contemporanea, collezioni private e pubbliche in Spagna, Francia, Germania e nel resto dell'Europa come anche negli Stati Uniti e sud America.
"Premio Controvento" ROMA, 1982. "Medaglia al Merito" Trofeo Internazionale "Medusa Aurea" ROMA, 1996. Premio "Villa Serravalle", FIRENZE 1997. "Gran Collare D´Argento" Palinuro nel mondo. Premio "Antiqua Firenze" e il "Oscar de la Cultura", 2001, FIRENZE. "Gran Premio Italia", 2003. Premio "La Dea Alata" FIRENZE, 2003. "Medaglia d´Oro" Trofeo "Medusa Aurea" XXVI edizione, ROMA, 2003 Accademia Internazionale D´Arte Moderna. "Gran Premio Maremma" Copa Costa D´Argento della Toscana. "Gran Premio Città di FIRENZE" 2003 Accademia "Il Marzocco". 1º Premio "Costa Toscana" IV Bienale d´Italia. 1ºPremio "Europa" 2004 TORINO. 1º Premio S. Ambrogio D´Oro 2004 ,MILANO. Gran Collare Accademico, ROMA 2004. Gran Premio Europa Art "Mediolanum" 2005, MILANO. Premio Canova " Medaglia d´Oro " Accademia Universale Antonio Canova. 1ºPremio Concorso Internazionale d'Arte "Sprigiona la Fantasia" TORINO, 2005. Oscar delle Arti, Accademico ad Honorem per l'Ordine "Michelangelo Buonarroti" Accademia Internazionale SANTARITA, TORINO. 1º Premio "Festival Hans Christian Andersen" in suo Bicentenario, COPENHAGEN (Denmark), Premio "Donatello 2006", Premio "La Dea Alata " 2006, FIRENZE (Italia), Premio "Coppa Mundis", ITALIA. Premio "Rembrandt 2006", per il 400° anniversario della nascita del pittore olandese.
"Premio SEVER a la carrera", Centro Culturale Internazionale D´Arte Sever, MILANO. Coppa Accademia "Artista anno 2007" Accademia Severiade, MILANO. Premio alla Cultura "Omaggio a Giosuè Carducci" nel centenario. 2007 Centro Molisano La Conca, ROMA. Grand Prix International "URBS MUNDI" 2008. Targa Sever D´Oro 2009, Centro Culturale Internazionale D´Arte Sever, MILANO. Premio Internazionale NOBEL dell´Arte 2009, MILANO. Premio "Leonardo Da Vinci" 2009, "Premio Universale" 2009 , FIRENZE.
* Académique de Mérite dell´Accademia Italiana "Gli Etruschi".
* Accademico per la Accademia Internazionale "Il Marzocco", FIRENZE.
* Accademico ad Honorem per l'Ordine "Michelangelo Buonarroti" Accademia Internazionale "Santarita", TORINO.
* Accademico per la Accademia Internazionale "Greci Marino". Accademico di Verbania.
* Accademico della Accademia Universale "Antonio Canova". ITALIA
"Kissing a fool" by Michael Buble
Roses d'automne
Comme par un prodige inouï du soleil,
Avec plus de langueur et plus de charme encore,
Les roses du parterre ouvrent leur coeur vermeil.
26/9/08
John COLLIER
The Honourable John Maler Collier (January 27, 1850–April 11, 1934) was a British writer and painter in the Pre-Raphaelite style. He was one of the most prominent portrait painters of his generation.
His commissioned portrait of King George V as Master of Trinity House in 1901 when Duke of Cornwall and York shows the extent of his fashionable reputation.
Other subjects included two Lord Chancellors (the Earl of Selborne in 1882 and the Earl of Halsbury in 1898, the Lord Chief Justice Lord Alverstone (1912), and the Master of the Rolls Sir George Jessel (1881); Rudyard Kipling (1891); the painter Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema (1884); the actors J. L. Toole (1887) and Madge Kendal, Ellen Terry and Herbert Beerbohm Tree (in "The Merry Wives of Windsor" (1904); heads of houses such as the Master of Balliol Professor Caird (1904), the Warden of Wadham College, Oxford G E Thorley (1889) and the Provost of Eton (1898); the Speaker of the House of Commons (1898, one of relatively few political subjects); soldiers such as Field Marshal Lord Kitchener of Khartoum (1911) and Field Marshall Sir Frederick Haines (1891); two Indian Maharajahs, including the Maharajah of Nepal (1910); and scientists including Charles Darwin (1882), the artist’s father-in-law Professor Huxley (1891), William Kingdom Clifford, James Prescott Joule and Michael Foster. Clark reports a total of thirty-two Huxley family portraits during the half-century after his first marriage (to Mady).
A photocopy of John Collier's Sitters Book (made in 1962 from the original in the possession of the artist's son) can be consulted in the National Portrait Gallery Heinz Archive and Library. This is the artist's own handwritten record of all his portraits, including name of subject, date, fee charged, and details of any major exhibitions of the picture in question.
Collier was from a talented and successful family. His grandfather, John Collier, was a Quaker merchant who became a Member of Parliament. His father (who was a Member of Parliament, Attorney General and, for many years, a full-time judge of the Privy Council was created the first Lord Monkswell. He was also a member of the Royal Society of British Artists. John Collier's elder brother, the second Lord Monkswell, was Under-Secretary of State for War and Chairman of the London County Council.
In due course, Collier became an integral part of the family of Thomas Henry Huxley PC, President of the Royal Society. Collier married two of Huxley's daughters and was "on terms of intimate friendship" with his son, the writer Leonard Huxley. Collier's first wife, in 1879, was Marian (Mady) Huxley. She was a painter, who studied, like her husband, at the Slade, and exhibited at the Royal Academy and elsewhere. After the birth of their only child, a daughter, she suffered severe post-natal depression and was taken to Paris for treatment where, however, she contracted pneumonia and died in 1887.
Shortly afterwards, Collier married in 1889 her younger sister Ethel Huxley. Until the Deceased Wife's Sister's Marriage Act 1907 such a marriage was not possible in England and the ceremony took place in Norway. Collier's daughter by his first marriage, Joyce, was a portrait miniaturist, and a member of the Royal Society of Miniature Painters. By his second wife he had a daughter and a son, Sir Laurence Collier KCMG, who was the British Ambassador to Norway 1941-51.
Collier died in 1934. His entry in the Dictionary of National Biography (volume for 1931-40, published 1949) compares his work to that of Frank Holl because of its solemnity. This is only true, however, of his many portraits of distinguished old men — his portraits of younger men, women and children, and his so-called "problem pictures", covering scenes of ordinary life, are often very bright and fresh.
His entry in the Dictionary of Art (vol. 7, 1996, p. 569), written by Geoffrey Ashton, refers to the invisibility of his brush strokes as a "rather unexciting and flat use of paint" but contrasts that with "Collier's strong and surprising sense of colour" which "created a disconcerting verisimilitude in both mood and appearance".
The Dictionary of Portrait Painters in Britain up to 1920 (1997) describes his portraits as "painterly works with a fresh use of light and colour".
Sixteen of John Collier's paintings are now in the collections of the National Portrait Gallery in London, two in the Tate Gallery and one, a self portrait of 1907, in the Uffizi in Florence which presumably commissioned it as part of its celebrated collection of artists’ self portraits.
Four of the National Portrait Gallery paintings are currently (December 1997) on display: John Burns, Sir William Huggins, Thomas Huxley (the artist's father in law) and Charles Darwin (copies of the last two are also prominently displayed at the top of the staircase at the Athenaeum club in London).
Other pictures may be seen in houses and institutions open to the public: his portrait of the Earl of Onslow (1903), for example, is at Clandon Park, Surrey (National Trust) and his portrait of Sir Charles Tertius Mander, first baronet, is at Owlpen Manor, Gloucestershire. A large and striking painting of the murderess Clytemnestra can be found in the Guildhall Gallery of the City of London. Reproductions of many others, from various collections, may be consulted in the John Collier box in the National Portrait Gallery Heinz Archive and Library, and a very good selection is published in The Art of the Honourable John Collier by W H Pollock (1914). The Hon. John Collier's work was also included in the Great Victorian Pictures exhibition mounted by the Arts Council in 1978 (catalogue, p 27).
Collier's views on religion and ethics are interesting for their comparison with the views of Thomas and Julian Huxley, both of whom gave Romanes lectures on that subject. In The religion of an artist (1926) Collier explains "It [the book] is mostly concerned with ethics apart from religion... I am looking forward to a time when ethics will have taken the place of religion... My religion is really negative. [The benefits of religion] can be attained by other means which are less conducive to strife and which put less strain on upon the reasoning faculties." On secular morality: "My standard is frankly utilitarian. As far as morality is intuitive, I think it may be reduced to an inherent impulse of kindliness towards our fellow citizens." His views on ethics, then, were very close to the agnosticism of T.H. Huxley and the humanism of Julian Huxley.
On the idea of God: "People may claim without much exaggeration that the belief in God is universal. They omit to add that superstition, often of the most degraded kind, is just as universal." And "An omnipotent Deity who sentences even the vilest of his creatures to eternal torture is infinitely more cruel than the cruellest man." And on the Church: "To me, as to most Englishmen, the triumph of Roman Catholicism would mean an unspeakable disaster to the cause of civilization." And on non-conformists: "They have a superstitious belief in the actual words of the Bible which is very dangerous".
Bibliography
- Clark R.W. 1968. The Huxleys. p98
- Quotations from Collier, J. 1926. The religion of an artist. Watts, London.
- A Primer of Art, 1882
- A Manual of Oil Painting, 1886
- The Art of Portrait Painting, 1905
- The religion of an artist, 1926
"....Perché
esiste una grande verità
su questo pianeta:
chiunque tu sia
o qualunque cosa tu faccia,
quando desideri una cosa con volontà,
è perché questo desiderio
è nato dall'Anima dell'Universo.
E quando tu desideri qualcosa,
tutto l'Universo cospira
affinchè tu realizzi il tuo desidero.."
Paulo Coelho
